Cima Paganella

Cima Paganella - Description

Directions

• Start

  Cima Paganella
  
  Cima Paganella cliff is by far the most scenic and spectacular cliff on the Paganella Plateau. From the wall, located at an height of 2100m., you can enjoy a unique view in an environmental context which makes climbers feel emotions that only the most renowned mountain routes can offer. The wall facing East offer a favoured view of the underlying Adige Valley and the Lakes of Lamar, while on the horizon the gaze reaches the Eastern Dolomites and the Lagorai Group. This new cliff is formed by a rough limestone, sturdy and compact, largely wrought and full of holes, grips and handholds where climbing comes with satisfaction. The nailing at short distance and a clear predominance of low/medium difficulty pitches make of this wall an ideal cliff even for the less experienced climbers.
  Once you have reached Cima Paganella, it is possible to get to the cliff by walking the first stretch of the path Sentiero delle Aquile (equipped path) which takes you to the cliff in about 15 minutes. Otherwise you can take the path 602 till you reach the Canalone Battisti in about 10 minutes (huge wood protection located on the top of the canal) and then cover in the opposite direction the path Sentiero delle Aquile, which leads you to the bottom of the cliff in a few minutes.
   
  18 ways from 4c to 7b
  1. Peace from Paganella: 5c; 10m.
  2. Via del muschio: 4c; 11m.
  3. Raponzolo: 5a; 12m.
  4. Via Lunel: 6a; 14m.
  5. Muy Linda: 6a; 14m.
  6. Kersch: 6b+; 14m.
  7. Ginepraio: 6c+; 12m.
  8. Rododendro: 7b; 13m.
  9. La Panoramica: 6a; 22m.
  10. Via dei Licheni: 6a+; 12m.
  11. Calcaria: 5c+; 12m.
  12. Via Maestri: 6a; 18m.
  13. Edelweiss: 6c+; 18m.
  14. LA Negritella: 4c; 8m.
  15. Mirtillo: 5a; 8m.
  16. Astro Alpino: 5a; 8m.
  17. Buchetto Degno: 6a+; 8m.
  18. Orso Bruno: 5a; 8m.

• end point

  Cima Paganella

required equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Difficulty

• Difficulty

  Medium

• Fitness

• Experience

• Landscape

Directions

self-arranged arrival
From the motorway exit Trento nord we drive direction val di Non and Altopiano della Paganella; just afer the long tunnel by Mezzolombardo, we turn right (SP 64), to Fai della Paganella and Andalo.
Fai della Paganella: departure of the chairlift Andalo: departure of the lifts or near the swimming pool/football pitch  

public transport
Trentino Trasporti - line 611: from Trento to Mezzolombardo by train (Ferrovia Trento - Malé), from Mezzolombardo to Fai della Paganella by bus. You can go to the top of PAganella by chairlift from Fai della Paganella (end June-end August) or by gondola+chairlift from Andalo (mid June-end September).