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  3. Via Ferrata Alpinistica Livio Brentari, Brenta Dolomites

Via Ferrata Alpinistica Livio Brentari, Brenta Dolomites

Via Ferrata Routes
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Duration 3.5 h

Distance 4.5 km

Ascend 670 hm

Descent 602 hm

Max. height 2883 m

Via Ferrata Alpinistica Livio Brentari, Brenta Dolomites - Description

A panoramic mountaineering via ferrata, sections of which are highly exposed. The route connects Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio Tosa Pedrotti along ledges and hanging glaciers beneath Cima Tosa.
A panoramic mountaineering via ferrata with exposed sections in the area of Cima Tosa. Inaugurated in 1950, the route connects Rifugio Pedrotti with Rifugio Agostini along a stunning ledge that is narrow and highly exposed in places. It runs beneath Cima Garbari and then descends along a vertical cliff face for about a hundred meters with the help of iron cables, ladders, and rungs.
Although not particularly difficult, the route does require physical fitness and experience with via ferratas. The possible presence of snow and ice near the d’Ambiez hanging glacier and the former Tosa hanging glacier may require crampons and pickaxes, which will make the trail more challenging.
The thrilling landscapes include Cima d’Ambiez, the Tosa spires, Campanile Steck, Punta dell’Ideale, Cima Tosa, Cima Margherita, Brenta Bassa, and Campanil Alto. See if you can identify them all! The actual via ferrata is an outing of between 3 to 4 hours, but you will also need to take account of the time it takes for the round trip to and from the trail itself (which adds another 6-8 hours).

Directions

  • Start

    Rifugio Pedrotti

    From Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti (2,491m / 8,173 ft), follow trail O358 to the south along the base of Cima Brenta Bassa, Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa. Past the fork for the Palmieri trail, climb up to Sella della Tosa (2,872m / 9,423 ft), where the via ferrata begins and you can enjoy the amazing view. To the northeast, you can see the central section of the Brenta group, which includes Campanile Basso, Campanile Alto, and Brenta Alta, and to the southeast there is Val d'Ambiez. To the right, in the snowy basin before Sella della Tosa, you can see the chimney of the standard route up to Cima Tosa (UIAA grade II, YDS 5.3 – 3,161m / 10,371 ft). The via ferrata heads down with iron cables, ladders and rungs to the d’Ambiez hanging glacier. Cross this small glacier (pickaxe and crampons are recommended and often necessary) and continue on to Rifugio Silvio Agostini in Val d'Ambiez (2,405m / 7,890 ft). From the d’Ambiez hanging glacier, instead of heading down to Rifugio Agostini, you may want to continue along the via ferrata Ideale (no. O304) to Rifugio XII Apostoli.

  • end point

    Rifugio Agostini

required equipment

Equipment needed:    technical mountain clothing    hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole    via ferrata gear    harness    helmet    gloves    pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)    a length of rope (recommended)

Tips for the tour

A visit to the glacial grotto Silvia, just 15 minutes from the lodge, is highly recommended. The floor of the cave is covered in layers of fossil ice dating back thousands of years. Stalactites and stalagmites of ice in early summer enhance the allure of the Silvia grotto.

Difficulty

  • Difficulty

    Medium

  • Fitness

  • Experience

  • Landscape

Recommended season

  • Jan.
  • Feb.
  • Mar.
  • Apr.
  • May
  • Jun.
  • Jul.
  • Aug.
  • Sep.
  • Oct.
  • Nov.
  • Dec.

Directions

self-arranged arrival
From Madonna di Campiglio to Rifugio Tosa: from the southern part of Campiglio, take Vallesinella to the parking area. From here, take trail O317 to Rifugio Casinei (1,850m / 6,070 ft), then trail O318 to Rifugio Brentei (2,182m / 7,159 ft), and then trail O318A to Rifugio Pedrotti (in 3.5 hours) via Bocchetta di Brenta (at 2,553m / 8,376 ft).   From San Lorenzo in Banale to Rifugio Agostini: take the paved road for 3 km to the parking area (at Bar Ristorante Dolomiti in Baesa), then follow trail no. 325 on foot along a mule track and then a trail, and in about 4 hours you will reach the lodge.A jeep taxi service is available to take you to Rifugio al Cacciatore, after which it is just a 1h 20’ hike.
From Madonna di Campiglio to Rifugio Tosa Pedrotti: ample paid parking in Vallesinella, although access is restricted (check summer schedule and pricing online). From San Lorenzo in Banale to Rifugio Cacciatore and Rifugio Agostini: limited parking available in Val d'Ambiez (for info during tourist season: San Lorenzo tourist association).

public transport
To get to Rifugio Pedrotti: Up from Vallesinella: shuttle bus service (in summer, from late June to early September) from Madonna di Campiglio (Piazza Brenta Alta) to Vallesinella. Check schedule and prices online. To get to Rifugio Agostini: Jeep taxi service: from San Lorenzo or directly from the parking area, you can take advantage of the jeep taxi service (a private service; contact the San Lorenzo in Banale tourist association) that will take you to Rifugio al Cacciatore (1,820m / 5,971 ft) in about 25 minutes. From here, continue on foot along the leisurely trail no. 325 for 1.5 hours to Rifugio S. Agostini at an altitude of 2,410 meters (7,907 ft).   You may also check the bus schedule of Trentino Trasporti at www.ttesercizio.it.

Interesting things nearby

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